The Lofoten Islands are absolutely breathtaking. When the midnight sun lights up the peaks, the magic literally comes to life. Imagine a permanent twilight, with the peaks ablaze and adorned in a thousand hues. I wanted all that! I wanted an explosion of emotions in the face of nature. Are you coming? I'll take you for a bivouac in Lofoten under the midnight sun.
Lofoten under the midnight sun
The Lofoten Islands, north of the Arctic Circle, are without doubt the most beautiful place I've ever seen on earth. When I first visited them in 2016, I was literally blown away. Here, as part of my Varagyan Roadtrip project, I wanted to take advantage of Lofoten under the midnight sun to experience a series of microadventures: packrafting in Reinefjord, climbing Lofoten's highest peak - Hirgravtinden - as well as a bivouac under the midnight sun.
The midnight sun sets the sky ablaze in a million fiery shades. Asgard is ablaze, summer Ragnarök!
Middnattssol, or midnight sun, conjures up moods and lights straight out of Scandinavian myths and legends. In the dreamlike atmosphere created by this permanent twilight. An epic theater draws the curtain on an opera filled with purple and majesty. So you'll understand why I wanted to make the most of it by bivouacking in the mountains. Accompanied by Quentin, le Crapahuteur, and Aurélie, we climbed Veinestinden and bivouacked at its summit .
Climbing the Veinestinden
Veinestinden is without doubt the summit offering the most dazzling panorama of Reinefjord and the town of Reine. Forget Munkan or Reinebringen, Veinestinden is truly THE spot to enjoy the full grandeur of Moskenesøya, undoubtedly the most emblematic island in Lofoten. However, like most summits, it has to be earned. Indeed, you'll have to tackle the Dantesque gradient and steep slopes during the 5 km ascent and 800 D+ with all your bivouac gear.
A rumor rises in the Fjord. Shaped by the giants, I feel their telluric pulse with every breath. Immensity!
Through the Burmese jungle
The ascent begins at the small parking lot between Reine and Moskenes, just after the bridge over the Djupfjorden. The first part of the hike follows the fjord to the foot of the mountains. This is not an easy section to tackle. The barely-marked path literally weaves its way through the trees. Dotted with holes, mud and unstable footing, it already puts our bodies to the test. In these conditions, we move slowly, and the 20kg on our backs don't help matters.
Fortunately, this "Burmese jungle" north of the Arctic Circle cannot withstand the rigors of Scandinavian weather and soon disappears. With it, we also leave behind the only vegetation on our climb. At the bottom of the fjord, we look for the path. It's barely visible. It secretly winds its way up the slope to a magnificent lake nestling in the mountains. It's hot, terribly hot. We can't resist the temptation to plunge into the icy waters of the lake.
At the pass
The ascent continues straight up the slope. Even in midsummer, the path is so steep that it can be slippery. That's why I strongly advise against it in rainy or windy weather. In such conditions, it can be extremely dangerous. Never forget that Lofoten can be devastating once the mild weather gives way to the impetuosity of the elements.
After this last difficulty, we reach the pass. To my left, in the distance, I can see the flat summit of Veinestinden, and to my right, the famous Reinebringen at 666m, the devil's number... The locals like to remind us of this, and they're quite right, as I'll explain later. Ahead of us, the view of Reine is already breathtaking.
So much beauty can only be the work of Odin, the first Skald. Reinefjord is a poem, an ode to the land and its absolute beauty!
All the way to the top
At the pass, only 1km remain to reach the summit of Veinestinden. I advise you to walk along the precipice to enjoy the breathtaking panorama over Reinefjord. With the mild weather on our side, the Lofoten Islands seem like Eden on earth. Their beauty is insolent, almost divine. It's hard not to be taken aback by such landscapes!
Lofoten, a paradise where the infinite horizon and the echo of the shields of yesteryear mingle in the mildness and impetuosity of its climate!
Bivouac in Lofoten under the midnight sun
Magic and grandeur
I have no words to describe the beauty of this landscape. Imagine a theater of jagged mountains emerging from the ocean, dancing in the ever-changing light. We stood for long, silent minutes, contemplating the spectacle. The wind enveloped us in the legends that lie dormant in such places.
Sometimes, silence is the dearest companion. Indeed, when words aren't strong enough to carry the weight of emotions, we have to leave them suspended in the limbo of our memories.
Bivouac in Lofoten
Coming to our senses, we pitched our tents. We were alone at the summit before being joined by a taciturn Swede, perfectly in tune with the summit's contemplative mood. Although the weather was fine, we had to watch out for the occasional gust of wind that battered the canvas of our tents. As a precaution, I tied up the tent with a surplus of stone to keep the wind out. In a few minutes, the atmosphere turns red. It's time to eat, to get out our little freeze-dried dishes.
Bivouacs in Lofoten, as throughout Norway, are subject to the right of access to nature. This gives everyone the right to enjoy nature, to roam, to pitch their tent freely, to pick berries, mushrooms and wild flowers. This must be done with respect for the environment. Unfortunately, in Lofoten, mass tourism is threatening this access.
As a result, the authorities have created a document outlining the best way to enjoy nature. Never forget that the beauty of a hike, bivouac or packraft outing is only complete if your adventure has no impact on the environment. In doubt? Call in the professionals.
Twilight Ragnarök
Now that we've eaten, it's time to enjoy the show. Quite simply. In just a few minutes, the horizon turned from deep blue to sparkling gold. I almost stopped myself from blinking to make sure I didn't miss anything.
During the polar summer, the sun tilts towards the horizon but doesn't disappear. It exposes itself in a breathtaking golden symphony.
Sól tér sortna, sígr fold í mar,
hverfa af himni heiðar stjörnur;
geisar eimi ok aldrnari,
leikr hár hiti við himin sjalfan.
Völuspá, stanza 57.
Alone at the summit of Veinestinden, my only concern is to capture every nuance of the twilight, in order to detect some kind of design. Then, in my silent contemplation, everything becomes clear to me. The opera playing out before my eyes draws its sound from the Ragnarök: "The sun darkens, the earth sinks into the sea, The shining stars flicker in the sky; Ferocity feeds the smoke and the sacred flame. Until the fire leaps high into the sky itself". This is how the end of the world is described in the Seer's Prophecy (Völuspá).
Dying in a glittering fire, the sun is fragile, while the cold, dark night reminds us of the fragile equilibrium that governs our world. This ishow men, gods and deities die, but hope for tomorrow is reborn. Líf and Lífþrasir will live on beyond the Ragnarök, so let's not give up hope.
Descent via Reinebringen
Waking up in paradise
The sun will have draped us in its shroud of light to protect us from the darkness. Indeed, we mustn't forget that in these latitudes, the midnight sun doesn't leave room for total darkness. By late July, the sun is below the horizon. But there's still plenty of time to experience what's known as the "sleepless night ".
On the summit, three tents lie like the carcass of an abandoned ship.
I'm the first to get out of my comforter. Like a child on Christmas Day, I wish I'd never left this place. But the afternoon thunderstorm forces us to move on. We pull up camp and, true to Sylvain Tesson, leave nothing behind but the rumor of our stories being told.
666m, Diable summit
Quentin and I are determined to go over the Reinebringen so we don't have to take the same route on the way back. Basically, it's a matter of climbing the eponymous 666m summit before descending to the famous Reine viewpoint. We know from some Norwegians we met the day before that it's okay, but can be a bit "airy".
We don't say a word to Aurélie, whose aerial passages are not really her cup of tea. But when we reach the pass, we have to admit it! I feel like Frodo at Caradhras Pass, announcing to the Fellowship that we'll be going through the Mines of Moria. Aurélie is not thrilled. Nevertheless, I'm really proud of her! She'll take it in her stride all the way down. I can tell you that's no mean feat!
On the Reinebringen ridge
At the summit, the reward is total. The atmospheric haze of the previous day has completely disappeared. Reine is revealed in all her beauty: radiant! Unfortunately, this moment of respite is short-lived. We absolutely had to start our descent. In the distance, dark clouds are gathering, heralding a deluge in the making. Cautiously but hastily, we make our way down to the famous viewpoint that so many tourists take pictures of.
On the edge! Skimming the void, enjoying the freedom!
We pass two hikers who have pitched their tents on the ridge itself. "Bad idea", they tell us of their "spot" with their steaming coffee, which they bring in front of their faces sore from the cold and wind of the night. It's then that we realize that the summit has protected us from the biting wind that blew across the islands all night long. We continue on our way, make a quick stop at the viewpoint and begin the final descent.
Final descent
The clouds in the distance are pressing in. It's time to take one last look at the ethereal beauty of Moskenesøya and begin the final descent. It's even rougher than it was two years ago. The erosion caused by too many passes has made the path slippery and almost dangerous in wet weather. Despite the poor weather forecast. People, sometimes wearing only sandals, drag their exhausted carcasses to the summit. What madness!
The cars are (finally) in sight. No sooner have we set down our bags than a thunderstorm breaks out! It lasts all afternoon. It's the perfect opportunity to return to Å for what is without doubt the best Kannelbulle I've ever had. Accompanied by a hot cup of coffee, I think back to the thousands of images racing through my mind. I've just had one of the most beautiful experiences of my life. The Lofoten Islands are a paradise!
Route: Ascent of Veinestinden & Bivouac at the summit
IGN MAP
AERIAL PHOTOS / IGN
OPEN STREET MAP
Bivouac dans les Lofoten - Ascension du Veinestinden
Further information
Departure
Depart from the parking lot after the bridge over the Djupfjorden from Reine.
Course
The route is unmarked and can be extremely dangerous in bad weather. This route and the bivouac should only be undertaken in good weather. Mountain experience required!
Difficulty
This hike is aerial, even very aerial in its final section (Reinebringen ridge). The distance and difference in altitude must be taken into account. However, the commitment required to descend the ridge is total (no way back). Take this into account
Author information
Very beautiful images, it makes me want to go to know.